Reptile Keeping For Beginners | Operation Animal Rescue | Reptile
In this article we will briefly beyond the basic requirements of most reptiles to give you a background knowledge on reptile keeping before researching the species you are interested. Some topics such as nutrition were excluded due to the large differences between the species.
HEATING
This is universal with almost all reptiles in captivity in the UK. Our climate supports many species of native reptiles from adders worms slowly, but the generally held as pets types are usually required much warmer climates and so additional heating. But it is not simply a question of keeping the nursery for a radiator!
All reptiles are cold-blooded, so that they can not control their body temperature independently of its environment as we do. The only way they can have some control over the temperature of the body is to move from warm regions to cool areas and vice versa. So we need to provide a temperature gradient. This is done by heating only one side of the pond to create a hotspot and leaving the other side done relatively cool. The temperatures at the hot spot and the law requires varies from species to species, so this needs to be explored.
heating methods
There are several methods that can be used to create this temperature gradient in the pond. By far the most popular styles for beginners is a Grundwärmemattetérmico. A heat mat wallpaper is a thin electrical device that you put under the bed or in some cases, it may be appropriate on the side of the pond be (read the manufacturer's instructions follow). A thermal mat wallpaper, which usually covers about one-third of the space on one side of the pond. Heat mats are one of the lowest powered heating methods for reptiles and are therefore only suitable for more temperate regions species as corn snakes.
The temperature of the heat mat can be controlled using an inexpensive device called a state of alarm status (a kind of thermostat for heat mats). There are several brands of thermostats that are designed specifically for reptiles heating systems. A thermostat is also an important part of the safety devices that prevent the excessive accumulation of heat on the hot side.
Another method of heating with a local light on the ceiling of the tank, which is controlled by a thermostat is mounted tanning. Dimming thermostats monitor the temperatures in the vivarium and reduce or increase the order supplied to the lamp power to regulate the temperature in the nursery. This method can provide much more efficient than a mat of heat and high temperatures. In addition, it can be used to not create a local monk who can Wärmematteesteira that. In nature, many reptiles use the sun to heat and so this type of heating has been promoting many days active lizards like bearded dragons natural behavior. A red spot lamp can also be used at night for most reptiles, since most do not see the color red.
Due to the very high surface temperatures of lamps in place a guard around the bulb is necessary to prevent the reptile from burns.
Another alternative is a Keramikkolbenbulbo that emits only infrared instead of visible light. This is ideal if you keep the kids in their room, so that the light does not disturb him. It is also more suitable for reptiles requiring exceptionally high temperatures, such as ceramic lamps come in power of up to 250W or even more in some cases.
Ceramic lamps can be controlled with a thermostat dimming, although a cheaper alternative is a pulse proportional to the thermostat continues to rotate the lamp on and off to maintain the required temperature. When a pulse proportional thermostat were, would be used with a local light bulb to burn very quickly, and you are constantly changing the lamp. Ceramic lamps on the other hand, this problem has not.
Again, the surface of the bulb can get exceptionally warm and so a guard around the lamp is essential!
Please the requirements of the reptile you are interested to fully explore before deciding which heating method is best for you.
LIGHTING
Many reptiles need specialized lighting. This is usually with belt specifically for reptiles called a form of ultraviolet light UVB fluorescent tubes, the most popular brand in the UK as Exo Terra Repti Glos though it is designed to emit a lot more variation in the price brands. Almost every day active lizard will require this type of lighting. It is very important because diurnal reptiles synthesize vitamin D3 called with UVB light. Vitamin D3 is an important vitamin reptiles allows calcium to metabolize their food. Without it, they may be unable to metabolize calcium, regardless of how much suffering in their diet and so they are of a disabling condition as metabolic bone disease (MBD) is known, which can result in severe bone deformities and in the worst case, the death.
Normal fluorescent lights do not emit UVB and ultraviolet light as a common or "black light". Always use a light that is intended to be used for reptiles. These bulbs also emit visible light, but they shine only UVB for a period of about 6 months so, if the lamp is still visible light by this time it must be replaced emitting.
For maximum effect, the lamp should ideally not more than six to ten inches from the reptile, although the scale effectively doubled when you use a reflector. Try to position the bulb and arrange the nursery so that your reptile will spend a large part of the day at the touch of pear ie when basking.
There are different types of UV-B emitting fluorescent light. Repti Glos come in three types: 2%, 5% and 10%. The percentage refers to the light spectrum as in the UVB range. 5% and 10% are the most popular are suitable for various types of reptiles. 5% bulbs are usually used with Rainforest and European species, because the intensity of sunlight in these areas is relatively low. 10% of the lamps are usually used for species of the desert that used to spend a large part of their lives in direct sunlight.
Nocturnal reptiles like Leopard geckos do not need any special lighting, as they rarely venture out in daylight.
Please the requirements of the reptile you are interested to fully explore before deciding which light system is best for you.
MOISTURE
Humidity should be kept in the nursery to match the natural environment of the reptile. Without adequate moisture your reptile from respiratory problems suffer, and if the humidity is too low, you may have problems shedding their skin. Average internal moisture in the UK is about 30-50% so if your reptile requires humidity is higher, the tank needs a mister sprayed to increase the humidity. An inexpensive device called a hygrometer can monitor the humidity in the nursery.
Nurseries with a higher moisture are more vulnerable to mites and mold so be sure to remove any feces and dead food immediately.
UNDERGROUND
There are several factors in selecting the proper substrate. The main factor is moisture. If your reptile requires a high humidity, then you have to use a substrate that can hold moisture well. Some examples are Orchid Bark, Sphagnum Moss, Coconut Bedding and Komodo Tropical Terrain.
There are some other options for reptiles that are not subject to high humidity, each requiring its own advantages and disadvantages. Beech chips are one of the more popular than others Bio Grass, Repti Maize, and Reptile Carpet.
The main problem with Beech chips (and indeed any substrate which is in the form of particles) is that there is a risk that the reptile could accidentally swallow when eating that block the digestive system or cause serious internal damage. A safer alternative is Bio Grass which basically compressed grass pellets. These pellets break when wet and can therefore be easily transmitted by ingestion. This also applies to a lesser extent with Repti Maize prepared from dried corn. When swallowed Repti Maize goes mushy around the outside, so it is not so difficult to spend and less likely to cause internal damage with book shavings chips. The main problem with the use of certain types of substrates is that they disintegrate when wet, they can be a nuisance around the water bowl. Of course all ingestion problems can be avoided if a substrate, not in the form of particles such as Reptile carpet, to use the a coarse feel, material you can use is the bottom line of the pond. This will eliminate the problem of ingestion, although there prevent lizards do dig the substrate happy.
In some cases, it may make more sense to feed your reptiles outside the vivarium.
Again, please fully explore the reptile Would you like to help us to decide which are most suitable substrate.
Reptiles suitable for beginners
Due to the special requirements of reptiles, not all types are suitable for beginners. The few that we recommend for those who are always in keeping reptiles leopard geckos Crested Geckos are now,, bearded dragons, corn snakes, turtles Kingsnakes and Hermann. These species grow to a moderate size, are very robust and usually have very good temperament, making them ideal for beginners species.
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noreply@blogger.com (Operation Animal Rescue) 02 Dec, 2014
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Source: http://www.operationanimalrescue.com/2014/12/reptile-keeping-for-beginners-operation.html
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